My Maytag Fridge Started Clicking and Stopped Cooling: How I Fixed it for $25 and Saved $2,000
1. The Midnight Disaster Hook
I’ll never forget the sound that woke me up at 2 AM. It was a repetitive click... silence... click. It was faint, but in a quiet house, it sounded like a ticking time bomb. By 7 AM, my fears were confirmed. The ice cream in the freezer had turned into a sticky soup, the milk was lukewarm, and my Maytag MFI2067AEW, the appliance I relied on to feed my family, was effectively a very large, very expensive box of trash.
The Technician Scare: I did what most people do: I called a pro. He spent less than five minutes behind the unit before delivering the blow. "Compressor's shot," he said. It’ll cost you at least $800 to swap it, but honestly? On a fridge this age, you’re better off buying a new $2,000 unit. I felt sick. I didn't have $2,000 to drop on a new appliance, and I didn't want to pay $800 for a repair that might not even work.
The Mission: Before I let him wheel it away, I did some digging. I realized that a clicking sound is often a cry for help from a specific, cheap part. This isn’t just a guide; it’s my personal war story of how I discovered it wasn't the $800 compressor that failed, but a tiny $25 plastic box called a start relay.
Universal Tip: While my story happened with a Maytag MFI2067AEW, the 'Clicking Loop' is a universal symptom. Since Maytag, Whirlpool, Amana, and KitchenAid are all part of the same family, their compressors often use the exact same start relays. If you hear that click on any of these brands, the fix is likely identical.
2. Terminology: Clearing the Tech Speak
Before you can fix the machine, you have to speak its language. I had to learn these terms fast to avoid getting scammed. Knowing these parts helps build the confidence you need to open that back panel:
- The Compressor: This is the big, black, football-shaped tank at the back of your fridge. It’s the heart that pumps cooling gas.
- The Start Relay (or PTC Relay): A small plastic device that plugs into the side of the compressor. It’s the spark plug that jump-starts the motor.
- The Overload Protector: A safety fuse usually built into the relay. If the compressor gets too hot or can't start, this part clicks off to prevent a fire.
- The Run Capacitor: A white or black cylinder attached to the relay. It holds a storage tank of electricity to help the motor run efficiently.
- Safety Warning: When you touch the screwdriver across the terminals, expect a bright spark and a 'pop' sound. This is normal; it's just the stored energy escaping. Don't let it startle you into dropping your tools. This is precisely why we use an insulated rubber handle; the electricity stays at the tip and never reaches your hand.
- Condenser Coils: The metal tubes that dissipate heat. On older fridges, they are on the back; on newer ones, they are hidden underneath.
- NeverClean Coils: A marketing term for hidden coils. Newsflash: they do need cleaning, and neglecting them is exactly what kills your start relay.
3. The Science of the Kickstart
Machines aren't magic; they follow the rules of physics. A compressor motor has two sets of copper wires inside: the run winding and the start winding. To get these moving, you need a specific electrical relationship.
The Water Pipe Analogy
To understand why my fridge was clicking, I looked at Ohm's Law ($V = I \times R$). Think of electricity like water in a pipe:
- Voltage (V): The water pressure from your faucet.
- Current (I): The actual flow of the water.
- Resistance (R): The size of the pipe.
A compressor needs a massive flow of water (current) to start spinning against the pressure of the cooling gas. The Start Relay uses a ceramic disc called a PTC thermistor. When it's cool, the pipe is wide open ($R$ is low), allowing high current to flow into the start winding. Once the motor is running, the disc heats up, its resistance skyrockets, and it clogs the pipe to stop the flow once it's no longer needed.
Why the "Click" Happens
When that ceramic disc inside the relay shatters, the "pipe" stays blocked. The compressor tries to start using only the run winding, which isn't powerful enough. The motor draws massive amounts of electricity, getting dangerously hot, until the overload protector snaps open to save your house from a fire. That snap is the clicking sound I heard at 2 AM.
4. The Shake Test (My Moment of Truth)
I decided to do my own diagnosis. I unplugged the unit and moved it away from the wall to see if I could find physical evidence of the failure.
Step 1: Accessing the Back: I removed the rear panel and was hit by a wall of heat. I saw five years of dust and pet hair clogging the coils.
Step 2: The Smell Test: I got my nose close to the compressor area. I could smell burnt toast, that unmistakable ozone smell of fried electronics.
Step 3: The Rattle: I pried the small black relay off the compressor pins. I shook it near my ear, and it sounded like a box of broken glass. This confirmed my $800 technician was wrong. A healthy solid-state relay should be silent. The ceramic disc inside had literally cooked and broken into pieces.
Expert Note: Make sure you identify your part before the shake test. If your Maytag has a modern Solid State (PTC) relay (a small black plastic cube), it should be silent. If it rattles, it's dead. However, if you have an older mechanical relay (looks like a box with a copper coil visible), it may rattle slightly even when healthy. Always check for burnt smells or visual scorch marks as well.
5. TOOLS & SAFETY (The Don't Get Zapped Guide)
Before you touch anything, you have to be safe. Refrigerators store power like a battery, and a mistake here can be painful or worse.
Critical Safety Warning
- The Capacitor Warning: The run capacitor can hold a lethal charge even when the fridge is unplugged.
- How to Discharge It: I used an insulated screwdriver (rubber handle). I touched the metal part of the screwdriver across both terminals of the capacitor at once. I saw a small spark, which was the energy leaving.
- The C Grip: When handling the capacitor, always grip it low on the body in a C shape with your hand, keeping your fingers far away from the top posts.
Required Tools: All I needed was a Phillips screwdriver, a flathead screwdriver, and a pair of work gloves (those metal fins on the back are sharper than they look).
6. The Step-by-Step Resurrection
Replacing the part took me less than 20 minutes. Here is the exact process I followed to bring my Maytag back to life:
- Removing the Bale Wire: There’s a stiff metal clip called a bale wire holding the relay on the compressor. I used a flathead screwdriver to wiggle under it and pop it off.
- The Photo Rule: Before I pulled the wires off, I took a clear photo. Most Maytags have a blue wire and a pink or white wire. If you mix these up on the new relay, you could short out the system.
- The Swap: I pulled the old relay off the three metal pins on the compressor. I pushed the new $25 OEM relay onto those same pins, ensuring the Common, Start, and Run holes lined up perfectly.
- The Victory Hum: I plugged the wires back in, snapped the clip on, and plugged the fridge in. Within seconds, I heard that beautiful, steady vibration of a running compressor.
7. The Comparison Matrix (Parts Guide)
I had to choose between the factory part (OEM) and a 3-in-1 kit. Here’s what I learned from the pros about making the right choice for your machine's health:
| Feature | OEM Start Relay | Universal 3-in-1 Hard Start Kit |
|---|---|---|
| Ease of Installation | Plug-and-play | Requires cutting/bypassing wires |
| Compatibility | Precision matched to your model | Universal (may be too powerful) |
| Long-term Safety | Keeps factory safety fuses | Bypasses original safety sensors |
| My Recommendation | The Best Choice for most fridges | Emergency Only for dying units |
Important Note: Professionals warn that 3-in-1 kits provide a much higher inrush f current than modern efficient compressors were designed for. Over time, this can burn out the start windings entirely.
8. Smart FAQ: Is It Dead Yet? Edition
Q1: What if the new relay clicks too?
A: This usually means the compressor is grounded or seized. To check for a ground, use a multimeter to measure from each pin to the copper refrigerant lines. If you see any resistance, the compressor is toast.
Q2: Can I use a hairdryer to speed up defrosting?
A: Please don't. High heat can warp the plastic interior walls, melt the rubber door gaskets, or cause an electrical shock if water drips into the dryer. Place a bowl of hot water inside instead.
Q3: Why is my fridge fan running, but the compressor is cold?
A: This is the Relay Logic. On most fridges, the fan and compressor share a circuit. If the fan is spinning, your control board is fine, but the relay is failing to spark the motor.
Q4: How do I prevent this from happening again?
A: Clean your coils every 6 months. Dust acts like a blanket, trapping heat and making the compressor work harder. This heat is what eventually shatters the ceramic disc in your relay.
9. The Bottom Line
That night, my family ate cold watermelon, and I kept my $800 in my pocket. Machines aren't magic; they are just a collection of parts that can be swapped out with a little patience. If your Maytag is clicking, don't let anyone sell you a new fridge until you do the Shake Test. Be brave, be safe, and trust your ears. You might just save a fortune.
